Comfort Food from Lebanon

[Written for The Index] 

The first thing to notice is the tacky toy dispensers, various tattoo options 50 cents a piece, little voodoo dolls and bok choy boys that come out of the machine down a shoot in little containers that look like flying saucers. A mural stands before waiting customers, a serene landscape depicting a shepherd herding his flock near a river and mountains in the distance.

Patrons walk past the front counter and can catch a glimpse of the kitchen scene through the order window. To the left of the first few tables is a mural of a Lebanese woman, behind a veil, making pita over an open flame, sand and heat and camels are in the distant background.

The peachy orange walls and light-brown grated floor tiles leave much to be desired. Shawarma King is an unimpressive restaurant, until you try their food.

It is a seat yourself restaurant. In the back seating area guests are greeted with a slightly off rendition of the Dome of the Rock painted on one of the back walls in the dining area. Its proportions are somewhat askew though it is quite beautiful.

There is a jade tree on the sill of one of the giant windows among other plants and middle-eastern décor like pots and a water jug. A WMU flag is represented on one side of the room, supporting the Western Bronco’s. A couple of Shawarma King T-shirts also adorn the walls. One shows the front design while the other reveals the back.

The appetizers arrived almost immediately after they were requested, Hummus, Falafel, and Meat Grape Leaves. The first thing to notice before the taste is the incredible portion sizes. Lebanese cuisine is similar those of many countries in the Eastern Mediterranean but according to my Lebanese friends, it’s the best. The portion sizes are culturally significant because a common practice in the middle-east is to be host to group of people. This gives the meals a very communal feel which is also why it begins with mezze, small savory dishes, leading up to the main courses. Once the taste hits you this becomes even more important because you’ll want to keep coming back for more.

The Grape Leaves had a unique flavor—rice and lamb are wrapped up in a tight leafy roll. Lemon juice adds a subtle sweetness but the overall taste is somewhat dry. The Falafel on the other hand is divine. Herbs, spices and chick pea flour fried to perfection and dipped in lumpy fresh yogurt, the Falafel is crunchy and doughy in just the right proportion. It’s like a Lebanese hush puppy that’s tastes healthier and more delicious. And in the east it it’s different wherever you go—quick, easy, and plentiful Falafel is sold from small shops set up out in the open like hotdogs in American big cities.

Hommous is the yummy constant that keeps coming back throughout the meal. Paprika, lemon juice, parsley, onions and tomato tastes light and refreshing garnished with real Mediterranean olives, the hommous starts the meal off right.

The Lentil soup was very light, a bright yellow color, and a little salty. I have had better. But the Fattoush was incredible. The house dressing was savory and not too sweet. The fried pita was better than any crouton in this middle-eastern salad.

The service continued to be fast, polite and knowledgeable. I was delighted to find Coke on the drink list rather than Pepsi. On Saturday night there was a constant stream of customers and if dining in isn’t for you they also deliver take out.

On to the main courses, eastern sounding music in the back ground is a subtle addition to atmosphere, as Beef Galaya, Arayas, Mixed Kabab, Mixed Shawarma and a Beef Shawarma sandwich are some of the best. The tambourine doesn’t quite drown out the child screaming at the table next to me but the Galaya almost does. The sauce is excellent in this sauté of beef, fresh vegetables, herbs, and spices.

The Arayas, ground beef, tomato, onion, parsley, homemade spice and toasted in pita bread, is full of flavor and well spiced. Mixed Kabab is the tenderest meat on the table. The Mixed Shawarma with fries fell a little flat—a little dry but with yogurt it has a good flavor and the fries are as well done, thick and potatoey. But the beefy, light, fresh flavor of the Beef Shawarma sandwich is a great menu item that tastes homey and full of mom’s love. The cardamom tea took too long to try but Shawarma King isn’t the kind of place you only visit once.