Sunday, March 13, 2011

Shawarma-licious! (Review Revision)

[Written for The Index]

Nestled in-between Roma’s Pizza and the railroad tracks that intersect South Drake Road, the Lebanese restaurant, Shawarma King, welcomes people in from the parking lot. Because the sign doesn’t face the road directly, it is easy to miss.

The Chef and owner, Nidal Awad, was born and raised in the Middle East. After working as the head chef of a hotel for several years Nidal moved to the United States. He now owns Shawarma House, located on Western’s campus, in addition to Shawarma King.

Three tacky toy dispensers greet guests upon arrival—Voodoo dolls, Tattoos, and Bok Choy Boys for 50 cents a piece. A mural covers the wall facing the entrance. It depicts a serene landscape, a shepherd herding his flock near a river with mountains in the distance. Shawarma King is a seat-yourself restaurant unless you order take-out or delivery, a viable option for Kalamazoo College students, because it is only five miles away from campus.

A window behind the front counter offers a glimpse of the kitchen; two large Shawarma rotisseries give a tantalizing sneak peak of what is to come. Shawarma is made by alternately stacking strips of fat and pieces of seasoned meat (beef, lamb or marinated chicken) on a stick. Shawarma is a fast-food staple across the Arab world and in parts of Europe.

To the left of the first few tables is a mural of a Lebanese woman behind a veil, making pita over an open flame, sand and camels fill in the background. There is a jade tree on the sill of one of the giant windows among other plants and middle-eastern décor—clay pots and a water jug. A WMU flag is represented on one side of the room, supporting the Western Broncos. A couple of Shawarma King T-shirts also adorn the walls. One shows the front design while the other reveals the back.

In the back of the seating area guests can see a striking and bright rendition of the Dome of the Rock painted on the wall. Its artistic perspective is particularly interesting; it’s as if the viewer is much smaller than the building, a child maybe, representing an idea of cosmic insignificance. 

Except for the art work, the peachy orange walls and light-brown grated floor tiles leave much to be desired. Shawarma King is an unimpressive restaurant, until you try their food.

The appetizers arrive almost immediately after requested, Hummus, Falafel, and Meat Grape Leaves. The portion sizes are large. Lebanese cuisine is similar to those of many countries in the eastern Mediterranean but each country has their own variations. The portion sizes are culturally significant because a common practice in the Middle-East is hosting for groups of people in the home. This gives the meals a very communal feel. Another common practice is to begin meals with mezze, small savory dishes served with drinks that lead up to the main courses.

The Grape Leaves, rice and lamb are wrapped up in a tight leafy roll, have an interesting quality—the leaves have a texture like that of spinach but thinner and tougher. Lemon juice adds a subtle sweetness but the overall texture is somewhat dry. The Falafel on the other hand is divine. Herbs, spices and chick pea flour fried and dipped in lumpy fresh yogurt, the Falafel is crunchy and doughy in just the right proportion. It’s like a Lebanese hush puppy that’s healthier and more delicious.

Hommous is the yummy constant that keeps coming back throughout the meal. Paprika, lemon juice, parsley, onions and tomato tastes light and refreshing garnished with real Mediterranean olives, the hommous starts the meal off right.

The Lentil soup was very light, a bright yellow color, and a little salty. But the Fattoush was incredible. The house dressing was savory and not too sweet. Fried pita garnishes the Lebanese salad, like a crouton but without the intense crunch.

The service is fast, polite and knowledgeable. Kalamazoo College students who prefer Coke can find a welcome change from Cafeteria Pepsi products in their favorite cola at Shawarma. On Saturday night there is a constant stream of customers but without a sense of crowdedness.

Eastern sounding music plays in the background and is a subtle addition to atmosphere. The tambourine does not drown out the child screaming at the next table over but the Galaya almost can. The sauce is warm and comforting in this sauté of beef, fresh vegetables, herbs, and spices. The Arayas, ground beef, tomato, onion, parsley, and homemade spice toasted in pita bread is meaty and filling. However, Mixed Kabab is the entrée with the tenderest meat. The Mixed Shawarma with a side of fries is a little dry but with yogurt it moistens. The fries are thick and starchy. The beefy, light, fresh flavor of the Beef Shawarma Sandwich is a great menu item that tastes beefy but not too heavy.

The cardamom tea is a subtly sweet way to end an evening but it takes a while to brew once ordered. If there is no time to enjoy it on a first visit, try it on the second. Shawarma King isn’t a restaurant to visit only once. Whether it’s the hommous, or the Lentil soup, or the Galaya, or any of the other options available, the food is worth going back for even if it’s take-out. Go with a large group and try everything or take a few close friends and enjoy the inevitable leftovers—because it’s better than Caf food and with low prices and college discounts it’s affordable too!

Hommous—$4.50 SM, $5.50 MD, $6.50 LG

Falafel—$6.50 (10 Pieces)

Meat Grape Leaves—$6.50 (10 Pieces)

Fattoush—$4.50 SM, $5.50 MD, $6.50 LG

Lentil Soup—$2.00 (Cup), $2.50 (Bowl)

Beef Shawarma Sandwich—$2.95

Galaya—$6.95 (Beef, Chicken, or Shrimp)

Mixed Shawarma—$6.95

Arayas—$10.95

Mixed Kabob—$10.95

Lebanese tea with cardamom—$1.35

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